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Nobody knows for certain why the tradition of working with rose petals originated in the city of Genoa, already famous for sugared almonds and delicious preserves.
In ancient times, roses were usually grown on the balconies or in the gardens of Genoese houses, and with their infused petals a syrup was produced for important guests – served in small crystal glasses.

Those who did not grow roses simply collected their buds in the hinterland of the Scrivia valley or bought petals from greengrocers or florists. Some shops in Genoa still sell them to the few locals who still fancy home-made syrups – as a matter of fact, petals are usually available at local greengrocers, each month of May.
It’s true that, in 1683, the shopkeeper Gian Domenico Peri said that “Jams and canned sugar made in Genoa are the best in the world”, but unfortunately this tradition has almost been entirely lost, but for the historical Romanengo Confectionery which still offers those delicious treats.
Artisan syrup though, still made with the infusion of rose petals, water, sugar, and a little lemon, is an absolute rarity.

The “Slow Food Presidium” has brought together all the traditional producers of this syrup, who strictly follow the Genovese tradition, using rose petals from non-polluted areas. Furthermore, an association of syrup rose producers has been established in the territory of Genoa, in order to revive this traditional production.
The best roses for this purpose are the ancient varieties, between the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. They are harvested from mid-May to early June when the flowers are well open.

The recipe of the infusion is simple: just dip the petals in freshly-boiled water along with a little lemon; then let them macerate for about 24 hours. Filter the liquid, press and squeeze what’s left of the petals, and add sugar. Boil for about 10 minutes and pour the contents into small bottles.

This post is also available in: Italiano (Italian)